Briefing from the land of smiles

From the land of blocking, blogging is hardly possible. Facebook, Youtube, blogs of any kind, sites with sensitive words (words you are not supposed to even think about, let alone mention them here), etc, etc are all blocked. For some of these, even proxy sites would not penetrate them. You are supposed to dig too deep to get around the great firewall for which I have no motivation nor time. That’s the most obvious reason why this blog had been inactive for months now. Other reasons being busyness and laziness and writer’s block (if a non-writer is permitted to have one).

H1N1 was a big concern and it scared us a little bit. But the trip’s been planned and petitioned (upwards) for too long. Efforts to cancel turned out to be too mafan (that’s troublesome for you), and off we went after consulting all sorts of people in the know practically from everywhere. Suvarnabhumi airport looked a little deserted at 2:20 in the am and we were rather happy about that. The visa fee had been cancelled till sometime next year and the immigration officials looked extra friendly and welcoming. After all we were among the few who dared to be in this land when every one else decides to stay out of trouble.

But what is this? Only very few people were actually wearing masks in the airport and we looked sort of out of place here with our masks on. We decided to take them off as well in the end. Airasia was giving some kind of promotional tour to some special guests. As we fly off to Chiang Mai with these special people we sat right behind the star of the group and the cameramen were all the time focusing on her moves. Nothing to make your heart skip a beat though.

I remember me six odd years ago, all impressed with the people who smiled at you and looked angelic in Bangkok, the city of angels (that’s the meaning of the name). But I am now convinced people seemed to smile without actually smiling in their hearts.

Chiang Mai reminds us of home. Tin roofs, green hills, blue skies – they are all here. We begin to realise how deprived we have been. I love Thai food for one, seafood especially. Temples? Am not too big on it. Go to one, they’re more or less the same. One is quite enough. Not even sure if we are going to any this time around. Let’s just be here and enjoy and relax a little more before we get back to where you need to talk in tongues and hope someone outside would know how to interpret and get your message across somehow. The feeling of freedom in the air, the knowledge that you are not under the radar of anyone and the anonimity you have is sufficient to give you satisfaction and enjoyment in this land for now.

Khob kun krub and khob kun ka!

HK Revisited

Night vision through the window

She thinks everything felt like a dream and to me it was more like a finely scripted movie.  After all we were headed for Hong Kong, the city of Wong Kar Wai!  In any case there was something surreal about the whole episode.  And no one could have scripted the drama and directed the whole play as well as He did and it was just thrilling to watch every scene as it unfolded before us.  It was like watching a master conductor conducting and orchestrating a symphony orchestra as they perform his magnum opus on one of those unforgettable and inimitable nights.  Just.  We were so privileged to have experienced and tasted his power, his love, his greatness and riches beyond measure.

View from Bishop Lei, Robinson Rd.

We feel covered and protected in everything and we just thanked him for his wonderful, wonderful outpouring of love.  A call here, a call there.  All things worked together perfectly and we lacked no good thing.  Not a single one.

Looking down upon Catholic Immaculate Conception Cathedral from Bishop Lei, just literally!

The sound of a ‘medical emergency evacuation’ can ring alarming bells to the ears but  there was peace in the heart which is truly beyond human understanding.  We felt covered by the love and prayers of good folks all around and it was almost physical in nature.  Hmm, how do you explain such an experience?

HK scene from Bishop Lei’s at dusk

The trip’s a sharp contrast to the one before.  Immigration came to the craft; and the paper works’ all done in a flash.  No questions asked.  All the logistics taken care of and thank You for everything!

Recuperating in HK

Kunming and Lijiang: A Journey

We were expecting a pleasant weather, clear sunny blue skies in Yangshuo and Guilin but it was not to be.  It seemed as though we brought the cold wave with us down south.  It rained and drizzled for some time and it was even colder indoor since there was no heating.  One day we decided suddenly and spontaneously to travel up to Kunming and to Lijiang, hoping for a better weather.

A view through a bus window

To travel within two days before the Spring Festival did not seem like a good idea but in the end it turned out that most people had already been home and we had a very peaceful and less crowded journey on the train.  Very unlike China during the season indeed!

We’re thankful to Seki and his mates for their brotherly love.  Seki took care of our hotel and travel arrangement and made sure we had something to eat when every restaurant was shut down for the festival.  After celebrating the Chinese New Year (or enduring the firecrackers) at Kunming we decided to leave for Lijiang, 9 hours away by sleeper bus.

M&M and lovely Joana would not hear of us staying in a hotel.  They graciously opened their home and hosted us and it felt like home to be with this lovely family.  Really enjoyed the beautiful, clean and sunny Lijiang.  It’s the home of a minority group, the Naxi.  Rich and interesting culture, and a beautiful and unique architectural buildings of the old town, strong enough to withstand a powerful earthquake when modern buildings around the town simply collapsed like a pack of cards.

Here’s a final installment of the photos:

Yulong Mountain from Black Dragon Pool

Yulong Mountain: Closer view

Lijiang New Town

A lady striking a pose in one of the Old City lanes

The old lane

part of the Old Town

The wheel at the entrance

The wheel at night

Lijiang Old Town

A pathway

The Black Dragon Pool

A captivating view

Black Dragon Pool - It's not easy to forget!

dusk

waterway

The Naxi Dance

night scene

A village on the way home

Lijiang’s too nice to be true.  And like all good things, the stay must come to an end.  Kunming’s wonderful too; we love it there every time we visit.  But as our friend David likes to point out, “Kunming’s for wimps; real men go to Xi’an.”  Lijiang’s a journey, so is Kunming; not the destination.  We had to return to the good old grey Xi’an.

On to Yangshuo

The people at the China International Travel Service Counter, near the bus and train station at Guilin were friendly, spoke English and actually had useful information.  They were ready and willing to help even if you don’t buy any of their services.  They offered us a hotel with a standard double room for 100 Renminbi a night at a 3* Hotel which would be no less than 400 RMB at peak season.  The Home Minister went up to check the room and after the inspection we managed to cut down the price to 90 RMB a night.

The West Street, Yangshuo

The West Street, Yangshuo

It’s beautiful all around Yangshuo

around Yangshuo

a view of Yangshuo township

…..and the bridge across the river

Three days at Guilin is quite sufficient if you are not in a hurry.  (You could do it for less, but more than three would be a day too many).  We then left for Yangshuo where the scenery is supposed to be much better.  The bus ride cost 15 RMB and an hour and twenty minutes but it was worth every minute.

Decided to try and follow Lonely Planet recommendation on accommodation this time around and went looking for Bamboo House Inn.  We were satisfied with the room, with a balcony and especially the soft bed.  The cosy atmosphere, the food, the setting, the readily available information, free internet (wireless included) and the service was superb and Bamboo House Inn did not disappoint.  We were extremely happy most of all for the friendly, English-speaking staff, which is a rare thing here.  We met interesting people there which I shall mention and talk about in some other appropriate place and platform.  And of course, the scenery was something that inspires and uplifts the spirit.

Yuval, an Israeli who arrived from India after spending six months there, came over to the Bamboo Inn and asked whether we’d be interested in doing a cruise from Yangdi, about 40 kilometres from Yangshuo.  Hiring a raft cost Y200.  If you get more people you can split between you and the price could be much cheaper that way.  In the end there were nine of us.  Two Chinese girls, an American couple, a German, an Israeli couple and us, the Indians.  We had the most beautiful day of our time.  The sun was up and it was really a perfect day as it rained the day before and the day after.

The cruise down the Li river

It’s an arresting sight

Must be a good address to have!

with fellow cruisers

just beautiful

majestic sight

I would do it all over again

wonderful formation

and there’s the fisherman

The photographer photographed

limestone peaks reflected in a lake

a quiet street

Glimpses of Guilin

Had to flee the cold, dry and grey Xi’an soon after the exams, hoping to enjoy a warmer weather down south.  However, we seemed to carry the cold wave and haze and fog with us as we arrived at Guilin.  The cruise along the Li river did not give us the scenery we had expected but it was still something to cherish.  Take a glimpse, if you will.  Hope to give you glimpses of Yangshuo which is much better than what you see here now.  Watch this space!

karst mountains reflected on the foggy Li river

Ah, the rafts!

Guilin city, behind the scene

A fisherman and his obedient and reliable cormorants

Closer view

the Solitary Beauty Peak

up the peak

The karst mountains of Guilin 

it was such a beautiful place!

The Elephant Trunk Hill actually looks like an elephant

Closer view

the twin pagodas